Designer Spotlight: Robert Geller


Francis Vazquez

We sat down with talented designer Robert Geller in his downtown studio to chat about inspirations, thoughts, and what comes next.

Robert Geller: I’m extremely proud that I can say this next season will be our 10 year anniversary, who would have thought? 10 years just doing Menswear, it’s fucking crazy. We never sold out, we just do our thing. We never tried to get too big, just tried to keep it in great stores around the world, while making clothes that I’m proud of, and that are wearable, but still push the envelope, and I think that we’re doing that. Let’s see what the next 10 years are.

My hero is Dries in the way that he only has a few stores around the world, and they’re all beautiful. He kind of runs it on his own terms, he’s super respected, and he delivers a great product. I don’t want to be Michael Kors or Tommy Hilfiger, that’s not my goal. My goal is to enjoy, and stay focused on the things that made me fall in love, and it was Dries, and it was Raf, and it was those guys who never really aspired to be to luxury, they never had diamonds, and gold, and the fur kind of idea of what luxury always was, I think that’s what really got to me. Their idea of luxury was like hoodies, and crazy painted jeans. That young cool vibe could be considered luxury, with a beautiful space, and with beautiful settings. That to me really was what was interesting about fashion. It never was about any bling factor, or fancy cars.

     “The pants for me are the idea of where it’s going, because you had this wide stiletto for a long time, and it just got super skinny, and everyone was wearing skinny jeans, and I like it, don’t get me wrong, but I feel like there needs to be a next step."

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...That’s a big part of my collection as well; it’s that idea of life and the various steps. I try and deliver clothes that are here already, through washes, and through treatments. I want there to be a feeling of it existing already. There’s nothing worse to me then taking out a shirt that’s perfectly pressed, that still has that shine on it. I love when you look at things and they have some wrinkles, and they’re just soft and warm and comfy. It feels like your favorite shirt already.

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This Fall Collection was really more of a general concern with what's going on in the Fashion world, & you know when Raf (Simons) left Dior, it was still this whole idea of 'it's just too much, too fast.'

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    One of my old assistants came up with the most amazing thing. He said that “if Dries van Noten is an oil painting, Ann Demeulemeester is a black and white photo, Margiela is a photocopy of a black and white photo, then Robert Geller is a polaroid.” Which I think is such an accurate way of describing ascetics. It relates to the washed out, off-color, romantic sense that I like to observe in my collections."

     “The idea was to have something like a parachute. There was this image of a guy who had this parachute fabric that was worn in, and washed, and looked really beautiful. He had it draped over his shoulder, and it made me think what if we created something that you could just throw on in the winter.”
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     "This is definitely one of favorite pieces of my collection. Bombers are really a big thing right now, and this is maybe the best bomber I’ve ever made. The fabric is phenomenal, it’s a japanese cotton-nylon blend, and that gives it an amazing crispness to it. Quality is such a big part of it to me, it’s so much about touching and feeling. I wear this jacket all the time, and you’ll see in a year or two it’s going to have the most amazing subtle changes in colors around the elbows”

 

Read more in Nº3.